Suyam | Agusan Manobo Embroidery Art
‘Suyam’ is one of the living traditions of the Agusan Manobo. Agusan is a Manobo language of northeastern Mindanao in the Philippine country. This is an art that is still being practiced by the Manobos people in Agusan del Sur and Agusan del Norte.
Professor Carlito Camahalan Amalla, a person who is actually part of Manobo culture, explains in his lectures that in the Agusan province, ‘Suyam’ is seen as a symbol that implies power, status, prestige, beauty, and charm (MR. CARLITO CAMAHALAN AMALLA DELIVERS a LECTURE ON SUYAM: AGUSAN-MANOBO EMBROIDERY ART, 2022). It contributes to your social-level. The clothing may also be designed ergonomically for efficiency and comfort. The societal structure of the Manobo is expressed through their clothing: Datu-Hawudon (chieftain), Bae (Woman chieftain); Bagani (warrior); and Odipon (slave). We can notice from looking at all their clothes, that the more accessories, tattoos, or garments you wear, the more power, respect and admiration you have. The items they wear are very meaningful and creative.
The embroidery on the cloth has been decorated and sewn on with thread. It consisted of many remarkable pattern designs. They have names to all the designs of the patterns. And they have descriptions or characteristics that they identify with the designs. They have categories from each type of pattern, which category having their own unique pattern styles: animals; geometric; equipment; and decor; spiritual and celestial; water and land; and anthropomorphic .
My favorite of these designs, first, is the Binaoo (pagong or turtle). The oval and diamond shape of the turtle is artistic, along with four curves which resemble the shell of a turtle. I am keen on the meaning and symbol of this, which is to defend, strive, and lifelong. It is interesting that they are aware of the characteristics that the animals had at that time.
The second design that amazed me is the Dinadragon. As a Filipino, this is the first time–I think–I have heard that a dragon is part of the culture. I like its rigid and sharp design. The meaning is also fitting, which is fierce, popular, and dominant.
The colors they have in their clothes is white, red, blue, and yellow. White and red are used for the people with a higher status. And in contrast, yellow is used for people with lower status.
Examples of the materials used to craft the clothes are Abacá ( strong fibers of the leaf stalks from banana plants native to the Philippines); coconut leaves; gold; vine; brass, wood; or cloth.
I learned that banton cloth is the oldest textile in the Philippines. It is found in caves and is tie-dyed. It is fascinating how they used these in burials, in that they found themselves wanting to cover up those who had passed away.
I like how the Sabley’s (sword) scabbard has a lot of fabric designs. I like that the basket’s design is like a snake’s skin. The needlework in which pieces of fabric are sewn to form a picture or pattern are very distinct and that it is from the Philippines.
An article by the Daily Tribune says that the tradition of this Indigenous art is in danger of vanishing because not a lot of people are practicing it (TDT, 2022). These textile art reflects the identity, culture, and tradition of Manobos. Amalla says that “The Suyam primarily serves as body protection but it emanates the personality and character of the one who wears it. The color and design embodies ideas and feelings.” From my view, it should be still used today in the Philippines more in creative ways.
Sources:
- TDT. (2022, November 1). Agusan manobo heritage showcased in Morocco exhibit Retrieved December 10, 2022, from https://tribune.net.ph/2022/11/01/agusan-manobo-heritage-showcased-in-morocco-exhibit/
- MR. CARLITO CAMAHALAN AMALLA DELIVERS A LECTURE ON SUYAM: AGUSAN-MANOBO EMBROIDERY ART. (2022). Embassy of the Philippines. Retrieved December 10, 2022, from https://rabatpe.dfa.gov.ph/index.php/news/press-releases/169-mr-carlito-camahalan-amalla-delivers-a-lecture-on-suyam-agusan-manobo-embroidery-art
